Texas Professional Tree Service

Fall is for planting. Often heard, but more often overlooked. Planting hardy trees and shrubs in the fall of the year can allow the plants to form a good root system before they have to contend with the heat and humidity of our summers. If you had to pick the best time to plant a tree in Arkansas, fall and early winter is it! November is ideal. As the leaves begin to fall, and the trees go dormant, plant away.

Plants usually come in one of three forms-container grown, balled in burlap or bare root. Today, more and more plants are being grown in containers, and container plants can be planted twelve months out of the year-provided they are given some care. Yes, even in the midst of a horrid July, you can plant trees and shrubs, but plan to stand next to them with the garden hose. Balled in burlap and bare root plants should be planted while they are dormant. Regardless of what form they come in, planting in the dormant season, (which is beginning) puts less stress on the newly planted plants. There is usually ample natural moisture, which allows the new plants to begin forming roots without much care from us. Do pay attention to the weather and if we go without natural rainfall for several weeks, you will need to water, even when it is cold.

Choose your plants wisely. When planting trees, look up. Don't plant under or near power lines. Give the tree ample room to form its natural shape and canopy. Today, many power lines and cables are being put underground. Know where these lines run before you begin digging. Consider the width of a mature tree as well. Normally we don't want to plant a shade tree any closer than fifteen feet from the foundation of the building.

Choose plants that take the conditions you have. If you have a moist boggy soil, go with plants that like moisture. Likewise don't put something that likes water, such as a River Birch in a dry, rocky site. Working within the parameters you have, make life a lot easier on you and the tree.

There are many misconceptions about planting trees or the way a trees root system grows. Some people claim that the trees root system, mirrors their top growth. Not true. Most plants have the majority of their root system in the top six to twelve inches of the soil-even trees. The entire root systems of most trees can be found within three feet of soil. The spread of the root system however, can be very extensive, often extending 2-3 times the spread of the crown. When planting a new tree, digging holes to China isn't helping anyone-except perhaps the chiropractor. If possible, dig a hole a minimum of three times as wide as the plants root ball, but only as deep as the root ball is. Don't replace the existing soil. Many gardeners throw away the rocky, poor soil, and backfill with potting soil or other rich amendment. That is not going to help the plant at all. Instead, it will containerize the plant in the ground, or create a swimming pool-either situation is not good for you tree. You can amend the fill by mixing organic matter with the existing soil. By amending a wide area and digging a wide berth, the root system will be encouraged to spread into the surrounding soil. If all you do is amend a hole large enough to plant in, you containerize the plant in the ground. Where would you rather grow, in the nice rich potting soil in the hole or the pitiful rocky clay surrounding it? If you can't amend a wide area, don't amend at all. Make sure the depth of the hole is only as deep as the root ball, or slightly shallower. You need to allow for some natural settling of the soil, and you don't want to bury the plant too deep. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deep, new roots will have difficulty developing due to a lack of oxygen. No fertilization should be used at planting. You want the root system to settle in and begin to grow the first season. Top growth can be more of an issue in year two.

Once the tree is planted, apply mulch around the tree to a depth of two to four inches. Allow some space between the mulch and the stem of the tree. You don't want those volcano mulch beds often seen around town. I often refer to them as the "bed and breakfasts" for rodents. Mice or voles can live in the nice moist, warm mulch bed, and reach over and chew on the trunk of the tree all winter long. Leaving that air pocket keeps moisture away from the trunk of the tree.

Mulch is important because it moderates soil moisture and temperature, it looks more attractive and keeps weeds away, and it keeps plant competition away. Lawns do compete with the roots of trees for water and nutrients, and if the lawn was there first, it can out compete those new tree roots. Mulching in a wide berth, also can prevent lawnmower and weedeater disease-the damage often done to the base of trees.

Once planted water is the most important factor for success. Too much or too little can both lead to death. Make sure the site is well drained and water deeply to encourage root formation.

If the tree is structurally sound, staking should not be necessary. Studies have shown that trees will get established faster and have a more stable trunk if they are not staked. However, if you have a tall or large tree with a fairly small root system, or live in an area with high winds, or have trees that have suffered storm damage, occasionally staking is needed. If staking is needed, use two or three stakes used with a flexible tie material. You want to allow some natural movement, so don't stake too tightly. Any ties that are in contact with the tree should be flexible, or wrapped in a piece of hose tubing. You don't want to cut or wound the trunk of your tree with the support. Remove any staking and ties after the first year of growth.

Trees provide us with shade-a much cherished commodity in the summer. With proper planting, they will establish themselves quickly, and begin a long and prosperous life. If you need new trees in your landscape, now is a wonderful time to plant

Pruning is a horticultural practice that alters the form and growth of a plant. Based on aesthetics and science, pruning can also be considered preventive maintenance. Many problems may be prevented by pruning correctly during formative years for a tree or shrub.

REASONS FOR PRUNING

1. Prune to promote plant health.
   
   

   • Remove dead or dying branches injured by disease, severe insect infestation, animals, storms, or other adverse mechanical damage.
     
     
   • Remove branches and branch stubs that rub together.

   Avoid topping trees. Removing large branches leaves stubs that can cause several health problems. It also destroys the plant’s natural shape and promotes suckering and development of weak branch structure.

2. Prune to maintain plants; intended purposes in a landscape, such as:

    

   • encouraging flower and fruit development,
     
     
   • maintaining a dense hedge, or
     
     
   • maintaining a desired tree form or special garden forms.

3. Prune to improve plant appearance

   Appearance in the landscape is essential to a plant’s usefulness. For most landscapes, a plant’s natural form is best. Avoid shearing shrubs into tight geometrical forms that can adversely affect flowering. Alter a plant’s natural form only if it needs to be confined or trained for a specific purpose. When plants are pruned well, it is difficult to see that they have been pruned! Prune to:

   • control plant size,
     
     
   • keep evergreens well-proportioned, or
     
     
   • remove unwanted branches, waterspouts, suckers, and undesirable fruiting structures that detract from plant appearance.

4. Prune to protect people and property.
   
   

   • Remove dead branches.
     
     
   • Have hazardous trees taken down
     
     
   • Prune out weak or narrow-angled tree branches that overhang homes, parking areas, and sidewalks — anyplace falling limbs could injure people or damage property.
     
     
   • Eliminate branches Eliminate branches that interfere with street lights, traffic signals, and overhead wires. REMEMBER, DO NOT attempt to prune near electrical and utility wires. Contact utility companies or city maintenance workers to handle it.
     
     
   • Prune branches that obscure vision at intersections.
     
     
   • For security purposes, prune shrubs or tree branches that obscure the entry to your home.